RSS
Even Primark has upped its game with Ethical Trading, after getting lots of stick from various of angles from other businesses and people within the industry as well as the public, not understanding how they can sell their clothing for such cheap prices without there being something wrong down the line somewhere. 'As Primark has grown, our record on ethical clothing has come in for close scrutiny. People question how we can affor quality fashion at low prices.'- Primark Website.

'Primark is a retailer that divides the nation. To many, it is a shoppers' paradise of amazing bargains. For others, the cut-price clothing chain represents fast fashion, exploitation and capitalism at its worst.'
'In 2005, Ethical Consumer magazine rated Primark as the least ethical of the main clothing stores in the UK.' - By Ian Johnston from the Independant, 8th March 2009

Primark has now had a year-long investigation on its working practice
'Low-cost clothing chain Primark has “significantly ramped up” its ethical purchasing activities, an investigation commissioned by the Ethical Trading Initiative (ETI) found.'
Dan Rees, director of ETI, said: "Primark has made enormous strides over the past 12 months and, while there is still a great deal of work left to do, given the pace of improvement and the resources now committed, we are satisfied that Primark is committed to a robust and credible ethical trade strategy.” Last year the business also nearly doubled the number of ethical audits at its suppliers' factories to 1,000. It plans to continue that rate in 2010. Primark said it was also working on 'living wage' projects in China and Bangladesh supported by charities, trade unions and suppliers.' - From supplymanagement.com, by Jake Kanter on 22 January 2010.

So it looks like all those allogations and talk about Primarks unethical business has finally had a positive effect on the huge chain, and hopefully will continue to improve over the next coming years! Its a good sign but will deffinetely take a while to get to the standards accepted, but this will not stop people wanting their fast fashion fixes.

 

Asos Green Room

"Welcome to The Green Room Blog. ASOS.com is launching our own marketplace in Feb 2010 with the aim of bringing you, our customers closer to the people that produce the fashion you wear!
Everything you see in The Green Room will have a story behind it that promotes people and the planet. We will showcase your favourite Eco brands as well as our ASOS.com own brand creations such as jersey made from Fairtrade cotton.
We've also designed a collection in collaboration with artisans and small communities in Kenya and Tanzania that we will launch under our new ASOS Africa brand." 
 
This Asos Africa range shows off that Ethical Fashion items are not always plain and boring as some may imagine. These playful prints are vibrant and exciting. These items do not come at a low cost, but then why would they when we need to make it fair? For the more exciting outfits you want, the more work that has to go into them, so the more someone should get paid?... you can on the other hand get cheaper items from Asos, so take a look if interested.
 Above are some of the featured brands for Asos's Green room. Asos have a great range of Ethical clothing and Fairtrade clothing, but I don't feel that they advertise this strongly enough, as whilst im still getting results from my Ethical questionnaire not many people know about stores or brands that sell ethical clothing and accessories? I think that Asos should push this forward to make awareness of how many items they have that help the environment and the working environment.

Stacey J Lee

We have come across many varieties of upcycled clothing and garments, but I have never seen such amazing pieces as the ones by Stacey J Lee's. The staple clothing we oh so love, our jeans and t-shirts have been given a true breath of new life from the designers latest collection name 'Re(-)creation'. 
" Re(-)creation comprises one-of-a-kind hand-knit accessories, sweaters and dresses made entirely of discarded, damaged, or sample garments. But the eye-popping, versatile pieces, which literally transform in some cases, are far from ordinary."
The one-of-a-kind garments are reconstructed from merchandise that has been donated by local designers and fashion companies, all materials that are used in the line are unworn leftovers, samples and/or damaged garments. 'Working outside the traditional methods of sewing and patternmaking, the garments undergo various processes of deconstruction in order to be restored as new, and often unexpected creations because of the nature of this system...'
'The first collection for this line begins with one of the most basic staples of the American culture t-shirt and jeans.'
2009


'Lee didn’t encounter any resistance when she asked local designers and apparel companies for clothing donations, although her requests did raise eyebrows. “They were curious and a bit suspicious as to why I would need all of these clothes,” she tells Ecouterre. “But once they saw my work in progress, they were more than happy to donate their discarded clothes.” In fact, some of the clothing had been sitting in storage for more than 10 years, Lee adds.

Along with a yen for sustainability, Lee also has an eye for fit and design—all of her pieces drape perfectly on the body. Several "transformer" pieces fulfill multiple functions, including a jumpsuit that morphs into a sweater and a dress that you can throw on as a shirt.
Upcycling may not be the only way to green the industry but eliminating waste from our landfills is a fine start.'

Amazing and truly inspiring work.

Magazine ChitChat

So today we had one of Sarah (our tutors) friends come in named Tammy who is the editor for 'The English Garden' Magazine. 

Yes you may be thinking 'How does this actually relate to Fashion in anyway shape or form', (like I did when she first started talking) BUT I was mistaken, and it is very relevant to my working practice.
Obviously Garden to Fashion is an extreme move and as literal things do not relate to each other much, but magazine work whether it be for Boating, Gardens, Fishing or Fashion all have the same principles!
Each company will obviously have their own specfic target customer, and their own market that they are trying to reach, as well as their own brand name, logos and layouts for their magazines, but all information added needs to attract a customer, needs to be interesting and informative, or fun and playful, as well as having eye-catching images, and items that relate to the reader. 

Tammy first started talking about herself, and her background and then went on to talking about when having an interview within a magazine company-
  • It is very important to seek out their competition, this can usually be determined by Price and by whether the magazine is monthly or weekly. Research the market. You need to know what the age group is? Look at the difference between the magazines. She said that she would be really impressed if the interviewee had prepared and brought in a mood board for the particular magazine of the customer profile, who are they creating this title for? Know your reader!
  • READ ARTICLES, You can learn a lot about reading the articles within a magazine, are they by celebrities? specialists? are they written in the 1st person? These often give you a clue as to who the reader is.
  • Who is advertising in the magazine? Are they expensive brands and products- Often shows that the reader has money. 
Some other information Tammy gave us on magazines included-
  • THE COVER: this is your billboard, it's your cover. You need to choose an image that stands out above the rest to make the customer want to buy yours over any others. It's your chance to entice and pull the reader in. 
  • Everything that is written within magazines have to be factually correct, as from a legal point of view, you can get in a lot of trouble. (Usually their are legal people involved within the firm for advice so you don't end up getting yourself in it). -People are always looking out for the mistakes, be careful!
  • Anything you choose to dress the model in, or show as an item (whether it is clothing, jewelry etc...) has to be available for the next 4 months after the shoot, this is because magazines are usually done 2 months before they are printed, so you have to ensure that the product you are advertising will actually be available to the readers.
  •  As well as this if the same product can be bought in a number of stores and has a different price in each, you either need to mention the specific store you bought the item in, or say 'Recommended Retail Price'. To cover your back if any items have changed in price or are different you can also say 'All prices correct at the time of print'- This saves people complaining.
  • Magazines always work a month in advance and are sent to print early, for instance March issue is released during the middle of February.
  • For 'The English Garden' magazine, flat plans (these are mock up versions of the magazines, where text is, where images go etc) are already done now until the September issue, so that means they are working 5 months in advance! Photoshoots will usually be done at the last minute due to cost and prices. 
  • Christmas is usually a weak time for magazines, the December issue is usually about shopping for Christmas presents and the January issue is usually about Christmas day-This is because of the magazine coming out the previous month.
  • Only mention advertisements in editorials if they deserve it, don't give them free advertising and don't let them get away with using you for this purpose (for instance if Tammy was wearing a certain brand clothing in her monthly picture, they might say can you mention our brand, if she does this, they manage to get a free advertisement within her magazine which would usually cost them hundreds). If magazines don't have advertisements, then they will be a goner! This is where lots of other companies have made mistakes, and eventually failed and shut down.
The magazine market at the moment is down by 25% which is an incredible amount.
People seem to be playing it safe at the moment and going with what works- layout, ideas etc. 
This is a lot like the Fashion industry itself, people just want to get it right to avoid failure. Any risks could potentially lose customers and readers.

Tammy then looked through my magazine spread that I did a couple of months back as a 'mock' article that was aimed to be put into WONDERLAND magazine... (image below incase you haven't seen on my other blog) 




After she had looked through my magazine spread, she said that she really liked it, and that she only had one criticism which was on the first page, where I have the quote in bold writing, that I could have cut this down a bit- and I agree, as it looks a bit too chunky and messy! But overall she seemed as though she was really impressed with my work, she also mentioned that I was the only one who used images that flowed well with one another, and used an illustration within my work. So a big thumbs up! She said from looking at this that I should deffinetely stick to the design side of magazine work as it is creative, and usually with editors work its mostly writing.

Research

Ethical Fashion: Useful Sources
Here are a list of useful sources such as books, websites and magazines that I have come across with my research that I have used or ones that I have kept and noted down to look at later.

STORES:
http://www.fairtrade.org.uk/products/cotton/stockists.aspx
EQUA- Angel in Camden- Fairtrade shop
http://www.equaclothing.com/acatalog/about.html
FAQ’S AQUA http://www.equaclothing.com/acatalog/about_faqs.html 


Companies and Designers: Ethical/Fairtrade
London Fashion Week: http://www.edie.net/news/news_story.asp?id=17704&channel=0&title=London+Fashion+Week+plugs+green+clothes
http://indigenousdesigns.com/section/garment/artisans
http://www.craftycrafty.tv/recycled_fashion/
Consumers want eco fashion- http://www.edie.net/news/news_story.asp?id=17472&channel=0
Strappy tops: http://www.marksandspencer.com/Fairtrade-Cotton-Greener-Living/b/63132031#_encoding=UTF8&rs=63132031&fromPS=&sort=salesrank&mnSBrand=core&viewID=leaf&pos=emsrch_pag_Page%203&showAll=&rh=n:63132031&isBrowse=1&page=3

Companies and Designers:RECYCLING:

http://preloved.ca/collections/lookbook-new/
http://www.onehourcraft.com/

Re-Creating http://www.stacyjlee.com/home.php
Recycled Fashion http://www.ilovelibertine.com/about/index.html

 
ABOUT ETHICAL/FAIRTRADE:
www.fashioninganethicalindustry.org
www.labourbehindthelabel.org
London college of fashion- research centre on sustainable fashion
V&A
http://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/fashion/features/ethical_fashion/index.html

BOOKS:

Sustainable fashion- Book in the library
Eco Chic; Fashion Paradise by Sandy Black

MAGAZINES:
ECOMAGAZINE http://cocoecomag.com/new/
http://www.ecouterre.com/
http://www.ecouterre.com/category/womens/

Catch-Up

UPDATE. What have I been doing?
Well.... I have been busy indeed with lots going on. I have completed my essay, so that is one task out of the way (Hand in is this Thursday which is the 11th March). 

I am still trying to get some more responses for my Eco-Fashion Survey, as well as in the making of a new Eco Survey that will be sent out for companies and businesses to answer.


As well as this I have now started my magazine spread. I am currently working on pages 4-5. The first page is the contents page, and then pages 2-3 are introducing the recession and explaining what it is all about (in hopefully a light format for those viewing) and how it is effecting some real people. The pages I am working on now are explaining what the impact has been of the Recession to the Fashion industry and how they are managing to survive. Whilst working on these pages, I have noticed how fussy I am when it comes to presentation, I am a perfectionist. This is not necessarily a bad point as when it comes to a magazine it is expected to be pristine and clean, but I feel I have spent too long on these pages and have been faffing around with minor details. NOTE TO SELF: Stop Faffing, I need to get the information down first and can then play around with layouts afterwards. 
My next aim is to go on to the Make do and Mend section of my magazine which I have already started to do by re-making and recycling some of my old clothes, taking step by step pictures and writing down instructions and this will then be used within my 'Make do and Mend' section of the magazine. This is intended to help those who are a little strapped for cash during this Recession, as well as getting those creative juices flowing... they are very simple and easy methods that can be done using a needle and thread-hand stitching. (Will post pictures and instructions of these once edited and completed).

London Town

UPDATE. LondonTown.
Well!, I went up to London on the 22nd February to buy some magazines for Research. I visited Magma http://www.magmabooks.com/content/bookshop/cats.asp?c=MAG which is a magazine store in Covent Garden. 
I only bought one magazine from this store, as I was overwhelmed with choices and really couldn't decide what to buy. I came out with a new magazine (the first issue) called Elephant, £12.99 ouch,  it is edited by the owner of the store Mark Valli (which I only just found out), and I must admit, was first drawn to it because of the cover.
Elephant £12.99, Issue No.1
'CR As the owner of Magma, you better than anyone know it's a pretty tough time for magazines right now, so why launch a new one?
MV
 Yes, times are difficult. Sales of books, expensive showcase books in particular, have been hit by the credit crunch. Yet from where I’m standing (and that’s often behind a shop counter) the magazine market looks more alive than ever. The drop in advertising revenues is hurting a lot of people, I know, but again, maybe that will encourage some renewal. Hopefully some of the fat old magazine clichés will die out and some fresh new ideas will emerge. In fact, if I curse the credit crunch on a daily basis (every evening when I get the sales figures from our shops), I cannot help but think it’s a healthy and necessary process. At the same time, it’s very scary…' - http://www.creativereview.co.uk/cr-blog/2009/september/a-magazine-called-elephant

This magazine is not a fashion magazine but is looking more at the art-world, but as I flicked through the pages I loved the layout. It is clean and simple yet precise...
The contents page- I love how the numbering is done with the information underneath. It draws your eye in. It's fresh, new and young.
Again with the three images below, I enjoy the layout, the writing is not how you would usually see it set out in the magazine, I like the contrast against the large and the small writing, as well as the contrast between the black font and white spacing. There is a playfulness with the fonts, and is not what I have seen in any other magazine.
I feel I may want to use some of these font ideas within my own magazine, as I feel it is young and can attract a young audience and keep their attention whilst reading, as it is clear and not too busy.


After visiting this magazine store, I went to Camden Market/Town as I knew I would be able to find some other magazine samples around, which I did. Eventually. On the way back to the underground station after busy and hectic wonderings, I thought I would pop into a regular corner store to get a snack, where I saw an array of magazine. One being Tank magazine, I had heard of it before but never bought it or seen it, but I was attracted to this magazine as it was ring bound, and was oversized, A3 maybe? I thought it was awesome none the less, so decided to purchase.
£6, The Blond Issue, Volume 6, Issue 2.
I could not find any images online for the inside of the magazine, but I like the way the pages were laid out, similar to the Elephant magazine there was lots of white spacing, which and a certain sophistication and elegance to the magazine, this contrasted with whole pages of photographs or illustrations,

Dazed & Confused £3.95, Volume 2, Issue 83.
I purchased the most recent copy of Dazed & Confused, and loved the layout of these pages in particular (image on the right above) Starting at page 126 in the magazine. I liked the large photograph mixed in with hand writing scribbled font at the bottom under the image, it gave it a diary feel, private and some-what 'old-school' and authentic. 

I also purchased POP magazine and Wonderland magazine which I will write up about at a later date.

Recession Reactionary Survey For Businesses


After sending this  questionnaire via email to numerous high street stores and brands, I have had 2 responses, but this is nothing to base real research on, those who I asked are small businesses that are rather new, so have not really been too effected by the Recession anyway. This is a very sensitive area as you can imagine, with brands not wanting to let me (quite rightfully) know details on their business and how they have been effected by the Recession. Here is the email that I sent out: (Click for larger image)...

I wanted to make it short and sweet so that whoever viewed it could see straight away what I was suggesting, but now if I were to redo this I would have said this was my dissertation, or final major project to make it more important for those questions to be answered. OR I would go into stores and ask personally if shop owners and workers could answer the questions.


Below is how the questionnaire looked, and what questions were asked. (Click for larger image)
 This hasn't been too much of a set back as there is a lot of information in Drapers Records about the Recession, and some information online where I can gather factual notes for my magazine spread.

Recession Survey Response

Recession Questionnaire Response
Thank you to those who took part...

Sorry the images are so small, but if you click on them they do open up in a new window and are much clearer.
I had a good response for this Recession questionnaire with 71 people answering it in total. Below are the questions asked and the answers given, as well as the response percent. The majority of people I questioned have not been effected in anyway by the Recession but have learnt to become more careful and aware of how they spend their money. Those who have been affected have limited the amount of money they spend per month on clothing and accessories, or have gone for more expensive/quality 'luxury items' that last rather than purchasing fast fashion that may not be made as well. Generally people are still spending their money on fashion items and accessories but are looking elsewhere for the bargain buys especially on the Internet as this has become increasingly popular as many stores often have cheaper deals online then they do in the store.